Arwibon Q13PRO Controller Swap Test Guide for Motor and Controller Fault Diagnosis
If one motor on your arwibon electric scooter stops running, jerks under throttle, loses power, or shows a motor/controller-related fault, it can be difficult to tell whether the problem is inside the controller or the wheel motor.
The official Q13PRO service procedure uses a controller swap test. Controller A and Controller B are temporarily cross-connected to the opposite motors. If the fault moves with the controller, the controller side becomes the main suspect. If the fault stays with the same motor, inspect that motor, its Hall circuit, phase wiring, and associated harness.
This procedure applies to the Q13PRO configuration shown in the official video. Do not reuse the Controller A/B assignments or phase-wire arrangement on another Arwibon model without confirming its original wiring first.
Tools and Workshop Setup
No phase-terminal tools are required for the Q13PRO configuration shown in the video because the motor phase wires use insulated quick-disconnect bullet connectors.
Prepare:
- Stable scooter stand or repair lift
- Protective insulated gloves
- Enough workspace to expose the controller wiring safely
Both wheels must remain completely off the ground during the powered test.
Original Q13PRO Controller Assignment
The official Q13PRO procedure identifies the controllers as:
| Controller | Original Motor |
|---|---|
| Controller A | Front motor |
| Controller B | Rear motor |
Check the labels on the controller housings before disconnecting anything.
Do not identify them only by physical position inside the deck.
Disconnect Battery Power First
Step 1: Open the Deck and Locate the XT60 Connectors
Expose the controller compartment.
Locate the two yellow XT60 power connectors supplying the controller system.
Step 2: Disconnect Both XT60 Plugs
Grip the yellow plastic housings firmly.
Pull the connectors apart by the housings rather than by the red or black power cables.
Both main power connections should be disconnected before the Hall or motor phase connectors are moved.
Do not perform the controller swap with battery power connected.
Confirm Controller A and Controller B
Step 3: Read the Controller Labels
Locate the controller marked:
Controller A
This is the front motor controller in the Q13PRO configuration shown in the video.
Locate:
Controller B
This is the rear motor controller.
Keep the wiring from each controller separated while you work so the two sets are not confused.
Disconnect Controller A From the Front Motor
Step 4: Disconnect the Three Front Motor Phase Wires
Find the blue, green, and yellow motor phase connections between Controller A and the front motor.
Hold the insulated connector bodies and separate:
- Blue phase wire
- Green phase wire
- Yellow phase wire
Do not pull directly on the cable.
After separation, make sure the metal contacts remain protected by their insulating covers.
Step 5: Disconnect the Front Motor Hall Connector
Locate the white 6-pin Hall connector.
Press the plastic locking tab and separate the two housings.
Controller A should now be disconnected from both the front motor phase circuit and Hall circuit.
Disconnect Controller B From the Rear Motor
Step 6: Disconnect the Rear Motor Phase Wires
Move to Controller B.
Separate its three motor phase connections:
- Blue
- Green
- Yellow
Again, hold the insulated connector housings rather than pulling the wires.
Step 7: Disconnect the Rear Hall Connector
Locate the white 6-pin Hall connector for the rear motor.
Release the locking tab and pull the connector housings apart.
At this point, both motors should be electrically separated from their original controllers.
Cross-Connect Controller B to the Front Motor
The first temporary test connection uses the original rear controller on the front motor.
Step 8: Connect the Front Motor Hall Plug to Controller B
Take the Hall connector from Controller B and connect it to the front motor Hall plug.
Align the keyed housing and locking tab.
Push the connector together until it is fully seated.
Do not force the plug if the guides are not aligned.
Step 9: Connect Controller B Phase Wires to the Front Motor
The official Q13PRO swap procedure uses color-to-color phase connections for this test.
Connect:
- Blue → Blue
- Green → Green
- Yellow → Yellow
Push each bullet connector fully together.
Then return the insulating cover over the complete metal connection.
No conductive metal should remain exposed.
Cross-Connect Controller A to the Rear Motor
The second temporary connection uses the original front controller on the rear motor.
Step 10: Connect the Rear Motor Hall Plug to Controller A
Take the white Hall connector from Controller A.
Connect it to the rear motor Hall harness.
Push the housings together until the locking tab engages.
Step 11: Connect Controller A Phase Wires to the Rear Motor
Follow the same color-to-color arrangement shown in the official swap procedure:
- Yellow → Yellow
- Green → Green
- Blue → Blue
Seat all three connections completely.
Check the insulating covers before restoring power.
Inspect the Temporary Swap Wiring
Before reconnecting the battery, check both temporary circuits.
Controller B should now be connected to the front motor.
Controller A should now be connected to the rear motor.
Confirm that each motor has:
- One Hall connection
- Three phase-wire connections
- Fully seated connectors
- No exposed bullet terminals
The temporary swap should only involve the motor Hall and phase connections shown in the procedure.
Restore Battery Power
Step 12: Reconnect the Yellow XT60 Plugs
After all Hall and phase connectors have been checked, reconnect the yellow XT60 battery plugs.
XT60 power should be restored only after the swap wiring is complete.
Turn the scooter on.
Perform the Unloaded Motor Test
Step 13: Keep Both Wheels Off the Ground
Before touching the throttle, verify again that both wheels are clear of the floor.
Stand beside the scooter rather than directly in front of or behind either tire.
Step 14: Check the Wheels by Hand
Rotate each wheel gently by hand first.
Check for unusual mechanical resistance or a wheel that is physically locked.
Step 15: Apply a Small Amount of Throttle
Use only a light throttle input at first.
Observe the front and rear motors.
Do not immediately run the motors at maximum unloaded speed.
For this diagnostic test, the important result is which motor operates normally and where the fault appears after the controllers have been swapped.
How to Read the Swap-Test Result
Result 1: The Fault Moves With the Controller
Example:
Before the swap:
- Front motor does not run
- Rear motor works
After the swap:
- Front motor works when connected to Controller B
- Rear motor now fails when connected to Controller A
This result strongly points toward Controller A or its controller-side output as the source of the fault.
The original front motor has demonstrated that it can operate from the other controller.
Before replacing Controller A, inspect its connectors and wiring for damage or poor contact.
Result 2: The Fault Stays With the Same Motor
Example:
Before the swap:
- Front motor does not run
- Rear motor works
After the swap:
- Front motor still does not run when connected to Controller B
- Rear motor works from Controller A
The problem has remained on the front-motor side.
Inspect:
- Front motor Hall circuit
- Front motor phase wiring
- Motor cable
- Connector terminals
- Internal motor wiring
- Hall sensor board
- Motor windings
The swap test narrows the fault to the motor side, but it does not by itself prove whether the internal Hall sensors or windings are the failed part.
Q13PRO Controller Swap Quick Reference
| Test Stage | Temporary Connection | Phase Arrangement |
|---|---|---|
| Original | Controller A → Front motor | Original factory wiring |
| Original | Controller B → Rear motor | Original factory wiring |
| Swap test | Controller B → Front motor | Blue→Blue, Green→Green, Yellow→Yellow |
| Swap test | Controller A → Rear motor | Yellow→Yellow, Green→Green, Blue→Blue |
Diagnostic Result Quick Reference
| After Controller Swap | Main Area to Inspect |
|---|---|
| Fault moves to the other wheel | Original faulty controller side |
| Fault remains with the original wheel | Motor/Hall/phase-harness side |
| Both motors fail after swap | Recheck temporary wiring and controller power |
| Motor jerks or runs abnormally | Recheck Hall and phase connections before further diagnosis |
Do Not Swap Motor Connections With Power Connected
The yellow XT60 battery connections must be disconnected before touching the phase or Hall wiring.
Do not use the controller swap as a live-plug test.
Connect the complete temporary wiring first, inspect it, and reconnect battery power last.
When changing the wiring back to the original configuration after testing, disconnect the XT60 plugs again first.
Keep Every Bullet Connector Insulated
The Q13PRO phase wires shown in the procedure use quick-disconnect bullet terminals.
After joining each pair, move the insulating cover back over the connection.
Do not leave the conductive terminal exposed inside the metal deck compartment.
Before powering the scooter, inspect all six phase joints.
Do Not Diagnose From Wire Color Alone on Other Models
The Q13PRO swap procedure shown here uses color-to-color connections during the temporary cross-test.
That does not mean every Arwibon electric scooter uses the same phase arrangement.
Some controller/motor combinations can use a different phase sequence.
Use this wiring pattern only for the Q13PRO configuration demonstrated in the official procedure or after the original wiring has been confirmed.
Return the Controllers to Their Original Wiring
The cross-connection is a diagnostic setup, not the normal operating configuration.
After the test:
- Turn the scooter off.
- Disconnect both yellow XT60 power plugs.
- Disconnect the temporary Hall and phase connections.
- Return Controller A to the front motor.
- Return Controller B to the rear motor.
- Restore the original Hall connections.
- Restore the original phase-wire arrangement.
- Cover every phase connection with its insulating sleeve.
- Reconnect the XT60 plugs last.
Do not leave the scooter in the temporary crossover arrangement for normal riding.
Final Check After Diagnosis
Once the original wiring has been restored or the failed component has been replaced, support the scooter with both wheels elevated.
Power it on and apply a small amount of throttle.
Check that:
- Front motor starts normally
- Rear motor starts normally
- Neither motor jerks
- No connector becomes hot immediately
- Hall connectors remain locked
- Phase connectors remain fully insulated
Only perform a normal riding test after the electrical system operates correctly with the wheels raised.
