Arwibon Electric Scooter Screen and Turn Switch Wiring Guide
If the center display or multifunction turn/light switch on an arwibon scooter has been replaced, or the original stem harness has damaged wires, broken connector housings, or backed-out terminals, the signal wires may need to be re-terminated before they can be reconnected to the controller harness.
This guide follows the official Arwibon screen and turn-switch wiring procedure. It covers shared-wire preparation, terminal crimping, insertion into 2-pin and 3-pin housings, and connection to the matching chassis harness.
The wire combinations and connector positions below apply to the configuration shown in this procedure. Do not use wire color alone to repin another Arwibon electric scooter unless its original connector layout has been confirmed.
Tools and Parts Needed
- Ratcheting terminal crimping tool
- Wire stripper or electrician's scissors
- Matching male crimp terminals
- Black 2-pin connector housings
- Black 3-pin connector housings
- Small terminal pick, if a locking tang needs correction
- Protective gloves
Disconnect the main yellow XT60 battery connector before cutting, crimping, repinning, or reconnecting any signal wires.
Lay Out the Screen and Switch Harnesses
Step 1: Separate the Two Wire Groups
Place the handlebar harness on a clean work surface.
The procedure shows two groups of small signal wires coming from the upper harness.
One group belongs to the multifunction switch branch.
The other belongs to the center display branch.
Before cutting or crimping anything, arrange the wires so each original branch can still be identified.
Prepare the First Shared-Wire Pair
Step 2: Join the Red and Green Wires Shown in the Procedure
Locate the red wire and green wire identified in the video.
Strip only enough insulation to expose the copper required for the crimp terminal.
Place the two stripped ends together.
Twist the copper strands together neatly so loose strands do not spread outside the terminal barrel.
The supplied procedure combines these two wires into one crimp terminal.
Do not apply this red/green pairing to another harness unless the wiring matches the configuration shown in the video.
Crimp the First Terminal
Step 3: Position the Terminal in the Crimping Tool
Place a matching male terminal into the correct crimping die.
Position the red/green wire pair in the terminal.
The conductor wings should grip the exposed copper.
The rear insulation wings should support the insulated wire section.
Step 4: Complete the Crimp
Close the ratcheting crimper through its full crimp cycle.
Remove the terminal.
Inspect the crimp visually.
Then pull gently on the wires.
Neither wire should move independently inside the terminal.
Prepare the Second Shared-Wire Pair
Step 5: Join the Green and Yellow Wires
Locate the green and yellow wires identified in the official procedure.
Align the stripped copper ends and twist them together.
Keep the strands compact.
Step 6: Crimp the Green/Yellow Pair
Install a new terminal over the prepared wire pair.
Place it into the correct crimping die.
Complete the full crimp cycle.
Check that both conductors are firmly retained.
Prepare the Third Shared-Wire Pair
Step 7: Join the Brown and Blue Wires
Locate the brown and blue wires shown in the video.
Bring the exposed conductors together and twist them into one compact wire end.
Step 8: Crimp the Brown/Blue Pair
Fit the terminal onto the combined wire end.
Crimp it fully.
Inspect both the conductor crimp and the insulation-support section.
Give the wires a light pull test afterward.
Crimp the Remaining Single Wires
Step 9: Terminate the Independent Wires
The remaining single wires, including the black wire shown in the procedure, receive their own crimp terminals.
Strip only the required amount of insulation.
Insert each wire into its terminal.
Crimp one terminal at a time.
Finished terminals should remain straight rather than twisted to one side.
Check Every Crimp Before Installing the Housings
A good small-wire crimp should have:
- Copper fully captured by the conductor wings
- No loose strands outside the terminal
- Insulation supported by the rear wings
- Terminal body still straight
- Locking tang undamaged
- Wire held securely during a light pull test
If a terminal pulls off easily, cut it off and install a new terminal rather than trying to reuse the failed crimp.
Check the Terminal Locking Tang
Step 10: Inspect the Small Retaining Tab
Before inserting a terminal into the plastic housing, look at the small locking tang on the terminal body.
It must be able to catch the internal locking shoulder inside the connector housing.
If the tang has been flattened during crimping, correct it carefully with a small terminal pick.
Do not bend it excessively.
A damaged tang can allow the terminal to push backward when the connector is plugged in.
Assemble the 3-Pin Connector
Step 11: Identify the 3-Pin Housing
Take the black 3-pin connector housing shown in the procedure.
Confirm its orientation before inserting any terminals.
Step 12: Insert the Terminals in the Original Order
The supplied procedure shows the 3-pin connector assembled with:
- Red/green shared terminal
- Black single-wire terminal
- Blue-wire terminal
Insert each terminal into its correct cavity according to the original/video layout.
Do not determine cavity position from color alone.
Push each terminal until its locking tang engages.
Step 13: Perform a Pull Test
After all three terminals are inserted, pull lightly on each wire separately.
No terminal should slide backward out of the housing.
Also inspect the connector face.
All terminal tips should sit at a similar depth.
Assemble the 2-Pin Connector
Step 14: Identify the 2-Pin Housing
Take the black 2-pin connector housing shown in the procedure.
Check the cavity orientation.
Step 15: Insert the Green/Yellow Shared Terminal
Insert the green/yellow shared terminal into the cavity shown in the source procedure.
Insert the corresponding second control-wire terminal into the remaining cavity.
Push both terminals until they lock.
Step 16: Check Terminal Position
Look into the front of the connector.
The two terminals should sit evenly.
Pull each wire gently from the rear.
Neither terminal should retreat from the housing.
Keep the Main Battery Disconnected Before Chassis Connection
Before moving to the lower controller compartment, confirm that the yellow XT60 main battery connection remains disconnected.
Do not reconnect battery power merely to identify plugs.
Complete all signal connections first.
Connect the First Chassis Plug
Step 17: Match the First 2-Pin Connection
Locate the corresponding black 2-pin connector in the lower harness shown in the official procedure.
The source identifies this connection by the wire groups visible in the video.
Align the keyed housings.
Push them together until the latch engages.
Do not force the plug if the housing does not align.
Connect the Second 2-Pin Plug
Step 18: Connect the Next Signal Branch
Locate the second matching 2-pin chassis connector.
Connect the corresponding upper-harness plug shown in the procedure.
Again, use the housing shape, original routing, and source layout to identify the match.
Do not rely on wire color alone.
Connect the 3-Pin Harness
Step 19: Join the 3-Pin Connector
Find the matching black 3-pin connector in the lower harness.
Align the connector guides.
Push the two halves together until fully seated.
Lightly pull on the housings afterward to confirm the latch has locked.
Connect the Final 2-Pin Branch
Step 20: Join the Remaining 2-Pin Plug
Locate the final 2-pin connector shown in the procedure.
Align and connect it to its corresponding lower-harness plug.
Once complete, the four chassis connector groups shown in the video should all be connected.
Wiring and Connector Quick Reference
| Stage | Wire / Connector | Procedure Shown |
|---|---|---|
| Shared wire 1 | Red + Green | Combined into one crimp terminal |
| Shared wire 2 | Green + Yellow | Combined into one crimp terminal |
| Shared wire 3 | Brown + Blue | Combined into one crimp terminal |
| 3-pin housing | Red/green pair + black + blue | Inserted according to source cavity order |
| 2-pin housing | Green/yellow pair + matching control wire | Inserted according to source cavity order |
| Chassis connection 1 | Black 2-pin plug | Connect to matching lower harness |
| Chassis connection 2 | Black 2-pin plug | Connect to matching lower harness |
| Chassis connection 3 | Black 3-pin plug | Connect to matching lower harness |
| Chassis connection 4 | Black 2-pin plug | Connect to matching lower harness |
Do Not Treat Wire Color as a Universal Pinout
The color combinations in this guide come from the Arwibon wiring configuration shown in the source video.
A black 2-pin or 3-pin connector elsewhere on an Arwibon e scooter may serve a different circuit.
Before repinning any connector:
- Record the original cavity positions
- Photograph the original connector if possible
- Match the original housing
- Match the keyed orientation
- Match the source procedure
Do not move a wire to a different cavity simply because its color looks familiar.
Two Wires in One Terminal Need a Proper Crimp
Where the supplied procedure combines two wires into one terminal, both conductors must be captured securely.
If one wire sits outside the conductor wings or can move during a pull test, the crimp is not acceptable.
Do not rely on electrical tape to hold a poor terminal connection together.
The terminal itself must provide the mechanical and electrical connection.
Do Not Leave Loose Copper Strands
Before crimping, inspect the stripped end.
Loose copper strands can:
- Prevent the terminal from crimping evenly
- Reduce the effective conductor area
- Touch an adjacent terminal
- Create an intermittent signal fault
If the strands are badly separated, trim and strip the wire again before crimping.
Check for Backed-Out Pins
After the plastic housings are assembled, connect and disconnect each plug once while battery power remains off.
Then inspect the rear of the housing.
A terminal that has not locked correctly may be pushed backward when the mating connector is inserted.
If this happens:
- Disconnect the plug.
- Remove the affected terminal.
- Inspect the locking tang.
- Correct or replace the terminal.
- Reinsert it into the original cavity.
- Pull-test it again.
Route the Harness Before Restoring Power
Arrange the completed wiring along the original path.
Avoid:
- Sharp bends near the crimp terminals
- Pinching wires under the deck cover
- Routing wires through bolt holes
- Pulling the harness tight around the steering stem
- Leaving connectors unsupported where they can move excessively
At the front stem, leave enough slack for full left and right steering movement.
If the scooter folds, check the harness through the folding range as well.
Reconnect XT60 Power Last
Once every signal connector is installed and the harness has been checked, reconnect the yellow XT60 main battery connector last.
Do not reconnect the battery while exposed terminals or unfinished crimps remain on the workbench.
Test the Screen and Handlebar Switches
Power on the Arwibon scooter.
Check the functions associated with the repaired harness.
Test the center display first.
Then operate the turn-switch assembly functions shown on the scooter.
If one function does not work, switch the scooter off and disconnect XT60 power before inspecting the wiring again.
Start by checking:
- Correct connector pair
- Correct cavity position
- Backed-out terminal
- Loose two-wire crimp
- Bent pin
- Damaged wire near the terminal
Do not repeatedly repin wires by trial and error while the scooter is powered.
Final Wiring Check
Before closing the deck, confirm:
- All crimps pass a light pull test
- Shared-wire terminals hold both wires securely
- No copper strands are exposed
- Terminal locking tangs are engaged
- 2-pin and 3-pin housings are correctly assembled
- All chassis connectors are fully seated
- No terminal has backed out
- Harness has steering and folding slack
- Wires are clear of deck screw holes
- XT60 power was connected only after the signal wiring was complete
Official procedure: Connect Wires for Screen and Turn Switch | arwibon
